A Salute to the greatest summer part 5: On to Paris
The ferry trip across the channel was slow, not frustrating but just the soft undulation of the boat against the waves whilst me and Josh relaxed in the Ferry's lounge, people watching. It was the usual high-brow stuff you'd expect two 19 year old lads to be talking about:
Josh: (Seeing fat girl opposite) Don't think much of yours mate.
Me: I'd rather have a wank.
Like I said, high brow....
After enough idle banter to kill an hour, Calais came into view. It wasn't particularly impressive as entrances to the rest of Europe go and I remember the station platform to Paris being particularly podunk and brown; not the Eurostar jazziness of today. But then, this was probably where they sent the great unwashed backpackers that we all were. After a short delay, a proper old rickety train rolled into the platform; all dischevelled benches and compartments with the varnish coming off; it was lovely. And sure enough, straight out of the book of Harry Potter entrances (which was 3 years away) we found the one free carriage and slid the door open, which moments later slid open again to show two women, both our age asking if they could join us. Two singles blokes could not have said yes faster.
These two lovely ladies from Newcastle sat down opposite us and quite by chance Josh and I mutually agreed through ESP which one we would be sleeping with. His was the brunette, mine was the blonde in the purple top, synched in the middle to squeeze her boobs together. I remember this vividly for reasons you are about to find out. I digress, we rattled along in the french countryside, at this point the day getting late; I'm guessing it was getting close to 6ish. We made small talk with the girls whilst my Beastie Boys album wierded everyone out in the background (takes a good few listens of Hello Nasty to realize it's a seminal work). Talk turned to Paris and the fact that Josh and me had not booked anywhere to stay, it was the World Cup so accommodation would be tight - what were two boys to do? Suddenly my gorgeous blonde - and let the record show that she was very pretty - said "You never know, you might end up bunking with us" And winked at me. So not only was she incredibly hot; she was on the Go-Team. Now, Josh and me had talked prior to the trip about how much action we might get (forgive us, two 19 year old lads, not virgins but conquests you could count on one hand and nery a girlfriend in sight) and here we were; totally taken by surprise that right off the bat, someone might want to have some fun. Naturally it killed all conversation.
The suburbs began to roll by in the twilight and eventually the buildings of Metropolitan Paris were passing by the train. We pulled into Gare du Nord and lugged our backpacks and the girls' backpacks out the train and walked in silent anticipation out towards where the metro entrance was. It was crossroads time and it went down something like this...........
Girls: Well, it was really nice meeting you both..............
Us: Yeah............it's been great...............
Girls: Um..............well, I guess we might see you in Paris................
Us:.................Yeah.................
Girls: (looking perplexed)..................ok....................see you then.
And Josh and I watched the first of numerous opportunities for female company literally slip through our grasp. And hence I will always remember that girl in minute detail as I thought I was about to be the luckiest man in the world - blew it. Feint heart never won fair maiden. Four simple words would have done it: "Mind if we come?" Instead, sheer nervousness and pride left us in the company of Mrs Hand and her five lovely daughters for the evening. We looked at each other with that Martin Freeman, "I can't believe we just let that happen" look of incredulousness. However, it was probably getting on for 9pm, it was getting dark and we still had nowhere to stay in a big strange foreign capital city. It was find a hostel or find a bench time.
Leaving Gare du Nord, we started to walk the streets. Then something else occurred - cars were whizzing by us with the occupants hanging out the windows, waving tricolors, beeping their horns. We'd forgotten that it was the Semi Finals of the World Cup and clearly, France, the hosts had a few moments ago won and were through to the final. There was a carnival atmosphere on the streets, the noise was becoming louder and louder; it was time to party. But we still had no digs.
We walked on, unknowingly north into Pigalle, which we soon found out was the seedy red light district and a little bit worrying to backpackers as green as us; lots of dark alleys, lots of suspicious characters loitering about the streets. But then, walking down one of the major roads this tanned, muscley jock-american in shorts and a t-shirt approached us and pretty much came out with "Hey guys, if you're looking for accommodation there's a place down the road called Paul's Hostel; it's good and cheap".
When someone doesn't even ask you, but assumes you're looking for accommodation and tells you where to go, in the dark, in a dodgy area of a large Metropolis, you have every right to be a bit suspicious. Who was he working for? Were we about to be mugged and left for dead in an alley. Not that we asked him any of these questions, we said thank you and started walking in the general direction of where he pointed to - hey beggars couldn't be choosers. Sure enough, down a side street, between grimy shops with their metal shutters down was "Paul's Hostel". So the American had turned out to be our first demonstration of what I wil call The Backpackers Spirit, which was to be one of the greatest bits of our travels - how much people will help you. We walked in and found this tiny little office off a yellowing corridor that actually led out onto a nice little back yard terrace with soft lights and tables, it seemed ok! But when we got to our dorm, it was a pitch black room with the windows and shutters painted closed and two lumps already in two of the bunks, both asleep. It was not the Ritz, bit grim, but it would serve. Job one was to get dinner; neither of us had eaten since breakfast. We stuffed our backpacks into the lockers and headed back out to a little burger house we'd walked past, grabbing a hamburger each. There was definitely a buzz on the streets with France winning the semi and after wolfing down our dinner, went back quickly to the Hostel to unpack. On arriving back, both lumps in the beds were awake and quickly we introduced ourselves to Michelle, a cute looking South Korean woman (I think she was 24 which seemed positively old) and Aachen a German girl with a crazy red bob. Both were backpacking as well and we encouraged them to come out for a drink in the crazy atmosphere outside. There was a mini carnival going on and we soon found a bar to have a few beers. Two fat Brazilian dudes spotted us, both wearing Brazil shirts and engaged us in an attempt at conversation.
"You are English yes? Ah David Beckham! Paul Scholes!" When I said I was Scottish, I got "Ah Coleeeen Hendreeee!" They were great fun, and I've got a fantastic picture of me and Josh with these two.
Aachen and Michelle weren't drinking and soon enough, both decided to turn in. Me and Josh decided to stay out a little longer and soak up the atmosphere. It was great. We'd originally planned to stay in Paris only for a couple of days but I think we made the decision then that we had to be here for the Final, which was 4 days away. Until then, we needed to find better accommodation and also see Paris in all it's glory, so we'd need to get up early and secure some better digs - time for bed.
